Understanding the Ban on TPO in Nail Products
The European Commission's forthcoming regulations are set to reshape the landscape of the nail industry by banning certain substances classified as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction). Among these, the prohibition of Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO) (also known as diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide) is particularly significant for nail technicians and product manufacturers.
Background on CMR Substances
CMR substances pose potential health risks and are classified into three categories based on the severity and evidence of their effects. The upcoming Omnibus Act VII, effective from September 1, 2025, aims to eliminate these risks in cosmetic products, including nail care items.
The Impact on Nail Products & the industry
TPO, commonly used in nail products such as hard gels, builder gels, topcoats, and basecoats, acts as a photoinitiator to help cure the product under UV light. Its impending ban necessitates a shift towards alternatives to ensure continued compliance.
TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl-diphenylphosphine oxide) is widely used for several reasons:
- Absorption Spectrum:TPO has a broad absorption spectrum in the ultraviolet (UV) region, particularly in the near-UV range (around 350-400 nm). This allows it to be activated by a wider range of UV light sources, including LED UV lights, which are increasingly used in curing processes.
- High Reactivity:TPO is highly reactive, meaning it can efficiently initiate polymerization when exposed to UV light, this leads to faster curing times and more complete polymerization,
- Low Yellowing:Unlike some other photoinitiators, TPO tends to produce less yellowing in cured products.
- Compatibility with Various Monomers:TPO is compatible with a wide range of monomers and oligomers used in UV-curable formulations. This makes it a flexible option for formulators who need to create products with specific performance characteristics.
- Effective in Thick Layers:TPO is effective in curing thicker layers of material because it can penetrate deeper into the material due to its absorption characteristics.
- Reduced Oxygen Inhibition:TPO is less susceptible to oxygen inhibition compared to other photoinitiators, which helps ensure a complete and even cure, even in the presence of air.
HONA's Thoughts
Like most brands, HONA, has anticipated these regulatory changes and have already excluded TPO from our formulations it hasn't been in our products for a while and most others would have droped it used long ago - those who haven't may be using outdated formulas so be aware. However with that said this is something nail techs really shouldn't worry about if it is currently in your products. The risk is extremely low and the exposure of TPO to you would have to be so abnormally high it really isn't worth thinking about. It's more a headache for chemists and brands.
You will find alternative photoinitiators like Bis-Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphine Oxide and Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate being used which are equally as effective and are compliant. Although these compounds may sound similar, they are distinct and safer, as verified by our collaboration with Jim from McConnell Labs.
We asked Jim McConnell about the TPO ban and the studies he had this to say to us "The amount of TPO that would have to be ingested to cause infertility is so large it would nearly be impossible to accomplish without great effort. As with many studies the data for how much TPO that would need to be consumed to have these effects is left off the reports but i suspect that it would have to be a few kilograms per day"
Advice for Nail Technicians
Carry on as you are but be mindful. As most nail products last longer than 12 months anything you purchase now which you won't completely use up will not be compliant when the ban comes in if it contains that ingredient. So if your current product does contain this bear this in mind.
After Sept 2025 All you need to do when the ban comes in to place is review the Safety Data Sheets (SDS) of the products you use to identify any presence of TPO and ensure you no longer are using it. With the ban approaching, transitioning to products that comply with the new regulations will be essential but by then i would assume most have reformulated.
Quick FAQ for Nail Techs
Q: Is TPO banned in nail products in the EU?
A: Yes. Starting September 1, 2025, the EU will ban TPO in cosmetics under the Omnibus Act VII due to its classification as a CMR substance.
Q: What are safe alternatives to TPO?
A: Photoinitiators like Bis-Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphine Oxide and Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate are safe, effective, and already used by brands like HONA.
Q: Do I need to throw away current products with TPO?
A: No, but be mindful of stock levels and ensure you don’t use them after the September 2025 deadline.